What good is sitting, alone in your room?
Come hear the music play!
Life is a cabaret, old chum!
Come to the cabaret

John Kander/Fred Ebb/Liza Minnelli, 1972

Camino Day 13, Domingo 20th September. 307 klms.

The above song has long been a favourite. I was reminded of it today as we walked through the town of Rabe de las Calzadas, 12 klms or so west of Burgos. The town was in early party mode – firecrackers/
rockets being sent into the sky, people gathering in their front yards playing band music, lads gathered on the street, a truck being set up with a portable stage. The highlight of our traverse of that town was without doubt the church bell display. They must have rung for 10 minutes, stopping everyone in their tracks. Of course one can’t capture such a melodious display with a still photo, but here goes anyway:


Spaniards seem to have a ready knack of the fiesta. Whether it’s a bit formal, like today obviously was, or informal like I have noticed on many occasions in the bars and cafés around the towns.

It seems to be all about enjoying life. Now I’m sure that there’s a lot more to the culture than just the Fiesta, but all the same that element is attractive. In a roundabout way it mirrors my “enjoy life while you can philosophy”, which brings me neatly to today’s walk.

We left our hotel, which was a couple of klms west of Burgos, around 8:30 this morning. It’s location was a bonus … we got a couple of klms credit for the tough walk in on Friday. And, the walk west out of Burgos is shorter anyway; that is, the countryside arrives much more quickly. It was quite a chilly walk – about 6-degrees and foggy all morning, but the time went quickly.

Before we knew it we were in Tardajos for 2nd and 3rd breakfasts (1st breakfast having been un platano at the start of the walk.) That was around 10:30 and about 9 klms in. I have noticed that post a rest day I take quite a while to get back into the proper rhythm again. So that first couple of hours were hard work as I worked to find my stride. But post breakfast, despite a slightly sore leg muscle from walking around Burgos all day in my sandals, I felt unstoppable.

Along the journey this morning we had to traverse and detour through some fairly major roadworks, and I loved the improvised flechas amarillos which guided us, one of which I’ve shown below:


The walk up from Tardajos, up through party town Rabe de las Calzadas and onto and through the infamous meseta was excellent. I couldn’t help but get the Cabaret metaphor or of my mind, not that I really tried to. The walk was delightful, and I found the meseta scenery quite lovely. Yes, it’s pretty open and broad and stark, but for me there was a real beauty to it. Some photos follow of our descent from the meseta into the little village of Hornillos del Camino:



We arrived in our penultimate destination, the village of Hornillos del Camino, in record time, a little after 1 pm. And who should be there in the bar but Kerry and Chereena, from some days back. She certainly had a story to tell … of fainting, falling out of her top bunk, being taken to hospital. Thankfully she doesn’t seem to have any lasting problems. Anyway, they spotted me but didn’t recognise me at first due to my current scruffy look (which will be considerably more scruffy in 23 days time!)

So we chatted with them for a long time, which ended up including a bottle of cava, spending a most pleasant couple of hours there. We also spent quite some time discussing the current 2016 US Presidential race with Cuban American retired lawyer Melie. I was very interested in her take on the current state of play. It’ll be interesting to see if her conspiracy theory plays out … time will tell.

The village of Hornillos del Camino is so much like many others, a pretty little place. A few photos follow:



I was interested in the above … an old traditional house, a BMW, and a very modern piece of farm machinery.

Because our hotel for the night is about 3 klms from Hornillos, we walked the final 3 klms or so back/right to our hotel at the even smaller village of Isar. Our hotel, the Hotel Rural la Consulta de Isar, is a lovely little place.

Tomorrow should be another pleasant meseta day – about 20 klms into Castojeriz.

One thought on “Cabaret

  1. Carol eckersley

    Wow so gorgeous! You make me want to hike this. Beautiful photos and one of the best parts of travelling – people you meet and discovering new stories etc. you are obviously having an awesome time! Don’t forget to run with the bulls at some stage! Bulls in a paddock perhaps. I went to a disco In Ibiza years ago where the bulk was running around the disco and people were jumping into the pool to escape. It was quite terrifying ! They’re crazy those Spaniards! Living life to the full!


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