The use of traveling is to regulate imagination by reality, and instead of thinking how things may be, to see them as they are. – Samuel Johnson
Day 3, Monday 7th September. So were I to say “we’re only going to walk 16 kilometres today”, I imagine that a common reaction would be “only???”. And yet today we only walked that far and it seemed like a breeze at the time. I might call it Pedro’s Theory of Relativity.
We left Larrasoana relatively late, at around 8:20 am, after desayuna at our little pension. The matriarch, Carmel, was a lovely helpful lady without a word of English. Her son, also Carmel (?) had not much more. But with our rudimentary Spanish and plenty of sign language we got by. Our homemade peregrino meal last night was the freshest salad you could hope for followed by an omelette from her own chooks. So picture Senora Carmel doing chook impressions to describe what was on the menu.
We then stopped at the wonderfully named Horno Irotz, where we again caught up with Aussie John and his mates. A horno is a pizza oven – and the surroundings here need to be seen to be believed. An oasis has been created out of the side of a hill. Not only are there 3 pizza ovens (along with coffees, tortillas, cakes, jamon, you name it), there’s a quiet area above the ovens with garden and hammocks – I guess to satisfy the weary traveller.
Our next stop was the 13th century Iglesia de San Estaban. It is largely unchanged over its 800 year history. Wow! Tradition requires the visitor to climb to the top of the belfry via the narrowest of spiral staircases and ring the bells, once. What a magic little place this is. It is slightly off the main path, but oh so well worth the deviation.
Earlier in the day we had met 2 fellow Aussies, Kerry a retired teacher from the Gold Coast and Shorona a young woman originally from Shepparton who had recently resigned from the NSW police and was traveling the world (in a “no fixed address” sort of a way). Lovely people, we wandered along with them for quite a way, parting company once inside the Pamplona walls as they headed off to find some digs for the night. Here we are getting close to Pamplona after an exploratory river walk diversion into the city.
This afternoon has been lazy day … there’s that relativity thing again. After check in at 2 pm, and some of the obligatory washing of smelly clothes, and a short rest, I headed off to explore some of the old town. More tomorrow as we have a rest day here and we are doing a walking food tour (☺), but for now just a couple of scenes from the city.